January 17, 2011

Tuesday, 17 January 1911

Scott

The hut at Cape Evans, photographed 28 January 2007 by Lin Padgham. Two annexes were built later, one not visible in this photo, as a stables for the ponies, and the second one, seen here, as a stores hut. The entrance to the hut proper is through the door at the far right of the stores annexe. [1]

The shore party moved into their new home.

"Such a noble dwelling transcends the word 'hut,'" wrote Scott, "and we pause to give it a more fitting title only from lack of the appropriate suggestion. What shall we call it?... The word 'hut' is misleading. Our residence is really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest that has ever been erected in the Polar regions; 50 ft. long by 25 wide and 9 ft. to the eaves." [2]

"It would rejoice your heart," Wilson wrote to Kathleen Scott, "to see your husband in the weather beaten condition he is in at present. He is in the most excellent trim for hard work. I am sure he feels, as I do, that it was only yesterday we were here and that the seven years which have passed over have left no trace, except in your husband a very much more confident grasp of conditions & possibilities, in which he simply excels.... There is nothing I wouldn't do for him. He is just splendid." [3]


Amundsen

Dog teams with loaded sledges on the way to Framheim, January or February 1911. [4]

Work continued transporting equipment and supplies over the sea ice at the Bay of Whales. "The going has been good," Amundsen noted in his diary. "The sun has had a considerable effect on the [snow]. Wide, polished expanses help to keep the sledges moving." [5]


Notes:

[1] Wikimedia Commons.
[2] R.F. Scott, diary, 18 January, 1911, quoted in Scott's Last Expedition, v.1.
[3] E.A. Wilson, letter to Kathleen Scott, 17 January, 1911, quoted by David Crane in Scott of the Antarctic (New York : Knopf, c2005), p.411.
[4] Roald Amundsen Bildearkiv, Nasjonalbiblioteket.
[5] Roald Amundsen, diary, 18 January, 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in The Amundsen Photographs (London : Hodder & Stoughton, c1987), p.81.

January 16, 2011

Monday, 16 January 1911

Amundsen

East Greenland dog sledding. Photo by Derek Reay. [1]

Because of his earlier experience on the Gjøa in the Northwest Passage, Amundsen had been using the Alaskan style of dog harness, with the dogs attached in pairs to a central trace. These dogs, however, had been trained in the Greenland style, spreading out in a fan shape from a central attachment, and the Norwegians soon realised that this was the reason for their problems the day before.

Together with Johansen, Hassel, and Wisting, Amundsen returned to the ship to alter the dogs' harnesses. "With the help of the ship's party," he noted in his diary, "we were able to make 46 traces in the course of an afternoon, or full equipment for the 4 teams we can use at the moment. That was the splendid result, and a good proof of what co-operation can do." [2]


Notes:
[1] Greenland Explored.
[2] Roald Amundsen, diary, 17 January, 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in Scott and Amundsen (New York : Putnam, 1980, c1979), p.339.

January 15, 2011

Sunday, 15 January 1911

Scott

In Scott's initial plans, a group of scientists would remain at Cape Evans, while two other groups, an Eastern Party under Campbell, would explore the coastline of King Edward VII Land, and a Western Geological Party under Taylor, would work in the mountains. The Southern Party would be made of up a select group of those at Cape Evans.

Oates had marked down two of the better ponies for Campbell's use, but upon watching them in action during the unloading of the ship, Scott decided that the slower ones in the polar contingent would hinder the faster ones. "After Service," Scott noted in his diary, "I told Campbell that I should have to cancel his two ponies and give him two others. He took it like the gentleman he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason." [1]


Amundsen

Transporting equipment and supplies to Framheim. [2]

"[All] dogs were landed," wrote Amundsen in his diary. "At the same time we drove up all supplies and equipment we dared load on the sledges the first time.... We have had a lot of trouble with driving today. There have been hidings for the dogs, but it has been necessary to make them understand the gravity of the situation. Things will soon be better." [3]

Each sledge moved five or six loads a day, about two tons in all.

They established their first camp on the Barrier "as a temporary residence for the dogs. It lay 1.2 nautical miles from the ship. Here ... in a pleasant little valley, we pitched a 16-man tent for the dog minders J[ohansen] & H[assel], together with passing travellers. Round the tent we then ran a wire in the form of a triangle -- each side 50 m. -- where our animals will be placed. We then continued our march to the place we had selected for our house. It lay only 2.2 nautical miles from the ship. In this way, our landing will be much quicker than originally planned." [4]

Amundsen had intended to build the hut ten miles inland, in case the Barrier calved, but upon getting a look at the terrain, he decided that the much shorter distance was sufficient. "At the appointed place, we marked out the building plot -- in a SE-NW direction, and pitched [another] 16-man tent for the use of Bj[aaland] & Jørg. [Stubberud], who will be the builders."

"On our return journey, we marked the whole route with dark blue pennants," Amundsen added, "so that it will be impossible to lose one's way. These marks have been placed at intervals of 15 paces. We were on board again at 5 p.m. -- Took some photos of this first trip of ours."


Notes:

[1] R.F. Scott, diary, 15 January, 1911, quoted in Scott's Last Expedition : the Journals, v.1.
[2] Roald Amundsen Bildearkiv, Nasjonalbiblioteket. The glass plate has suffered considerable damage.
[3] Roald Amundsen, diary, [16 January, 1911], quoted by Roland Huntford in The Amundsen Photographs (London : Hodder & Stoughton, c1987), p.75.
[4] Roald Amundsen, diary, 15 January, 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in The Amundsen Photographs (London : Hodder & Stoughton, c1987), p.82.

January 14, 2011

Saturday, 14 January 1911

Amundsen

Unloading the Fram in the Bay of Whales, 14th January, 1911. [2]

At eleven o'clock in the morning, unloading of the Fram began. Eight dogs were hitched to a sledge loaded with 300 kilos (660 pounds) of supplies, and Amundsen was given the honour of driving.

"I glanced at the ship," he wrote later. "Yes; as I thought -- all our comrades were standing in a row, admiring the fine start. I am not quite sure that I did not hold my head rather high and look round with a certain air of triumph. If I did so, it was foolish of me. I ought to have waited; the defeat would have been easier to bear. For defeat it was, and a signal one. The dogs had spent half a year in lying about and eating and drinking, and had got the impression that they would never have anything else to do. Not one of them appeared to understand that a new era of toil had begun. After moving forward a few yards, they all sat down, as though at a word of command, and stared at each other. The most undisguised astonishment could be read in their faces. When at last we had succeeded, with another dose of the whip, in making them understand that we really asked them to work, instead of doing as they were told they flew at each other in a furious scrimmage. Heaven help me! what work we had with those eight dogs that day! If it was going to be like this on the way to the Pole, I calculated in the midst of the tumult that it would take exactly a year to get there, without counting the return journey. During all this confusion I stole another glance at the ship, but the sight that met me made me quickly withdraw my eyes again. They were simply shrieking with laughter, and loud shouts of the most infamous encouragement reached us." [3]

Anticipating the shuttle of stores between ship and hut, pennants on sticks had been prepared in advance, to be set out to mark the route.


Notes:

[1] Roald Amunsen Bildearkiv, Nasjonalbiblioteket.
[2] Roald Amundsen, The South Pole, ch.5.

January 13, 2011

Friday, 13 January 1911

Amundsen


The Bay of Whales. Photograph by P. Bond, before 2007. [1]

The Fram pulled in to the Bay of Whales. As soon as she was moored, Amundsen, Nilsen, Prestrud, and Stubberud set off on ski. The men were all a bit out of shape from having been five months at sea, but the skiing was good in the loose new snow and brilliant sunshine. After half an hour, they came to the place where the sea-ice and the Barrier met, the Barrier there being a rather anticlimactic twenty feet (6 m) or so, and smoothed with drift into a gentle slope.

"[The] ice foot led onto the Barrier by a small, even slope; an ideal connection [to the ship] in other words. We continued in a south-easterly direction, and after about 15 minutes reached one of the [previously observed] ridge formations on the barrier. These formations looked like small morain ridges with certain irregularities on the top. These irregularities turned out to consist of huge ice blocks on edge. Something must have stopped the barrier in its regular progress and caused this. What else can it be but underlying land?" [2]

He was, in fact, wrong. Shackleton had in 1908 rejected the Bay as unstable due to the extensive calving in the inner bay. Amundsen, noting that Shackleton's observations had shown that the location and shape of the Bay had changed little since Ross' discovery of it in 1841, reasoned that the ice was grounded on land. Although the bay, like the entire Barrier, is now known to be afloat, it is in the lee of Roosevelt Island, which slows the advance of the ice and creates the ridges that Amundsen had studied.

"I selected a place -- in a little valley, on a fine, flat foundation, about 4 nautical miles from the ... sea, as our future residence. Here we will build our home, and from here our work will be carried out. Already tomorrow -- Sunday -- we start some preparatory work, so that we are ready to begin in earnest on Monday."

"Lt. N[ilsen] has worked out the distance sailed from Norway. it is 15,938 nautical miles, and had been estimated at 16,000. That was not bad. We had calculated on being at our field of work on the 15th January -- We lay to ... on the 14th."


Notes:

[1] Wikimedia Commons.
[2] Roald Amundsen, diary, 14 January 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in Scott and Amundsen (New York : Putnam, 1980, c1979), p.315.

January 11, 2011

Wednesday, 11 January 1911

Scott

Cherry asked Wilson what would happen if Scott did not reach the Pole. "We shall probably stop here [another year] and have a 2nd go at it -- 'with fewer ponies and dogs, but more experience,' as Bill said. Two good failures and we could be forgiven for not succeeding.... [I] wonder where the Fram is: they are supposed to have 140 dogs and 10 dog drivers on board: Meares says that if they were here now he believes they could go straight to the Pole." [1]


Notes:

[1] Apsley Cherry-Garrard, diary, 11 January 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in Scott and Amundsen (New York : Putnam, 1980, c1979), p.334.

January 10, 2011

Tuesday, 10 January 1911

Scott

"Francis E C Davies constructing a one storied wooden hut at Antarctica during the British Antarctic ('Terra Nova') Expedition (1910-1913). Photograph taken on the 10th of January 1911, by Herbert George Ponting." [1]

Work continued on the hut. Its double-walls were lined with felt and insulated with quilted seaweed, and the roof was covered with "three-ply rubberoid". Inside, the floor was covered with linoleum, and a bulkhead was constructed of packing cases to separate the seamen's mess-deck and the ward-room for the use of the officers and scientists.


Amundsen

The Ross Ice Shelf, photographed in 1997 by the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. [2]

The Fram came upon the Great Ice Barrier, the massive Ross Ice Shelf. Nilsen had brought them in at 169° 40' W longitude, only a little too far to the west. [3]

Bjaaland waxed poetic in his diary: "At long last, the ice barrier hove into sight today. It is a strange feeling that grips one as the sight now reveals itself. The sea is still as a pool, and before one stands this Great Wall of China and glitters. Far off, it is like a photograph that has just been developed on the plate." [4]

Amundsen, however, was more pragmatic. "There it lay," he wrote in his diary, "this infamous 200 ft. high snow wall -- wall of ice one cannot call it -- and gleamed at us. I had expected it to impress me more than it does, but the excellent reproductions in Shackleton's book meant that I had got used to it and looked on it as an old acquaintance. So here we are." [5]

He wrote later, "At 2.30 p.m. we came in sight of the Great Ice Barrier. Slowly it rose up out of the sea until we were face to face with it in all its imposing majesty. It is difficult with the help of the pen to give any idea of the impression this mighty wall of ice makes on the observer who is confronted with it for the first time. It is altogether a thing which can hardly be described; but one can understand very well that this wall of 100 feet [sic] in height was regarded for a generation as an insuperable obstacle to further southward progress.

"We knew that the theory of the Barrier’s impregnability had long ago been overthrown; there was an opening to the unknown realm beyond it. This opening -- the Bay of Whales -- ought to lie, according to the descriptions before us, about a hundred miles to the east of the position in which we were. Our course was altered to true east, and during a cruise of twenty-four hours along the Barrier we had every opportunity of marvelling at this gigantic work of Nature. It was not without a certain feeling of suspense that we looked forward to our arrival at the harbour we were seeking What state should we find it in? Would it prove impossible to land at all conveniently?" [6]


Notes:

[1] Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand. The entrance annexe with skylight visible in this photograph would later be surrounded by a stores annexe.
[2] Wikimedia Commons.
[3] Roland Huntford notes in his first two books about the South Pole that upon crossing the international date line on the way south, which would have been around 10th January, 1911, Amundsen forgot to put back his dates by one. Upon arrival at the pole itself, Amundsen made sure to note this: "'So we arrived, and planted our flag at the geographical South Pole,' Amundsen wrote in his diary. 'Thanks be to God!' The entry was headed 'Friday 15 December (really 14th)''' (The Amundsen Photographs, p.130). "On returning to civilization," Huntford adds, "the dates were (pedantically) revised" (Scott and Amundsen, p.546). This is mentioned almost in passing in the last sentence of Appendix II of Amundsen's The South Pole, which reads only, "The date was not changed on crossing the 180th meridian." It is not at all clear from Huntford's notes whether or not he silently corrected the dates in the Norwegians' diaries to align with this revision, but many seem to have been. For the Fram's arrival at the Great Barrier, for example, Bjaaland's diary as quoted by Huntford in Scott and Amundsen is dated 11 January, which is the supposedly-revised date given by Amundsen in The South Pole (ch.4). The only time that the two expeditions came in contact was on 4th February 1912, when Campbell in the Terra Nova put in at the Bay of Whales to find the Fram already established there; the diaries quoted by Huntford are indeed dated 4 February.
Hassel's diary (published by Vågemot Miniforlag in 1997) notes that "Friday, January 26, 1912 at 3 1/2 in the morning we came back from the South Pole, which we reached 15 December (new date 14 December) at about 5 in the afternoon", but no further information or explanation is given by either Hassel or the unknown editor.
For the most part, dates given for the Norwegians here in "Scott vs. Amundsen" are one day earlier than those given in the published sources by the respective authors, unless otherwise noted. Thus, here, pedantically or not, the Pole is attained on 14 December 1911.
Amundsen's book might be taken as the standard, but Arthur Hinks points out in "The Observations of Amundsen and Scott at the South Pole" (The Geographical Journal, vol. 103, no. 4 (April 1944), pp. 160-180) that dates were corrected inconsistently even within the same edition of Amundsen's book. Comparison with archival materials such as Fram's logbook and the various diaries would most likely settle the question, but is unfortunately beyond the scope of this project. In Race for the South Pole (Continuum, 2010), Huntford adds in a footnote to the entry for 15th December 1911, "The 14 December 1911 is the date that has gone down in history. It is all academic anyway. In the interests of historical authenticity, the original 'wrong' dates in the Norwegian diaries are preserved" (p.320, fn 59). Since Huntford so clearly states that the dates in the Norwegian diaries have not been revised for that book, this is here taken as the standard, minus one: I am all for historical accuracy, but the point of this page being to see as exactly as possible where the respective expeditions were in relation to each other on any given date, here it does matter.
Note that the US paperback version of Scott and Amundsen, retitled The Last Place on Earth (New York : Atheneum, c1983) was "adapted" for the popular market by not only cutting much of the text but eliminating the footnotes altogether. There is no mention of the dates question at all, and the date given for arrival at the Pole is Friday, 15th December (p.453).
[4] Olav Bjaaland, diary, 11 January 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in Scott and Amundsen (New York : Putnam, 1980, c1979), p.314.
[5] Roald Amundsen, [diary, 11 January 1911?], quoted by Roland Huntford in Scott and Amundsen (New York : Putnam, 1980, c1979), p.314.
[6] Roald Amundsen, The South Pole, ch.4.

January 9, 2011

Monday, 9 January 1911

Amundsen

"Great activity reigns on board," Amundsen wrote in his diary. "The last touches are being put to all the work. Clothing bags must be packed ready to go ashore." [1]

While in the pack, seals had been shot and brought aboard to give the dogs fresh meat and feed them up before putting them to work.


Notes:

[1] Roald Amundsen, [diary?], 9 January 1911, quoted by Roland Huntford in Scott and Amundsen (New York : Putnam, 1980, c1979), p.313.